Black in Indonesia: Experiencing Racism
“Berapa?” “How much?” I asked the taxi driver while opening my bag. I glanced at the meter and noticed that it wasn’t on. Not this old trick again. I mentally kicked myself for not checking it when I first got into the taxi. I’ve taken a taxi many times to work and know the price shouldn’t be more than 18,000 rupiah.
“Lima pulluh ribu.” “Fifty thousand” he said now looking out his window.
I took out a fifty thousand note and told him I wanted 30,000 rupiah. Suddenly he said in English,
“Oh no misses. Fifty thousand.”
“Kembali.” I said, my impatience growing. I stretched out my hand palm up, expecting my change.
He turned around and fiddled in his shirt pocket muttering. Then he told me he had no change. I offered to run inside my school and make change. He waved me off while holding my money in his hand. The next words out of his mouth were “hitam monyet,” black monkey.
“Aku hitam monyet?” “I’m the black monkey?” He looked me dead in the eye and said, “Ya.”
“Brengsek!” “Asshole.”
Enraged, I snatched my money from his hand and slammed the car door so hard I thought the hinges fell off. He didn’t follow me into the building, but shouted,” HITAM MONYET!” as he drove off.
Inside my school, I took a few deep breaths at my desk, holding back tears and fighting the sudden nausea threatening to expel my lunch.
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I knew being Black in Indonesia wasn’t going to be easy. On my first visit here, people lined up to take pictures of me and my friends at Tanah Lot Temple in Bali. That day, my skin was rubbed and my hair touched. I fell in love with Indonesia’s natural beauty and decided last year that I would move. I desired to be surrounded by majestic beauty and Indonesia provided that. I wanted to be near bubbling volcanoes, majestic mountains, turquoise waters and powder white sand beaches. What I didn’t know last year was how much of a spectacle I would feel everytime I go out. The stares, the pointing, the laughing and pointing and people taking my photo on the sly are overwhelming.
After living here for seven months now, I have a much better grasp of the language. Acquiring the language has culturally opened up doors for me. For the most part, I have been treated with Indonesian hospitality that rivals no other. However, I feel that one racist encounter is too many. So far these are my experiences. I hope not to add any more to this list.
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I have a lot of travel planned for the rest of my time here in Indonesia. I wanted to take on a morning teaching job to help pay for my excursions. Two months ago, I asked the other teachers if they had any leads. One said to send him my resume. A week later I followed up. He said, “They asked me if you were black or white. I told them you were black and they said no. They want a white person.” Until today, that school still has an opening for a native speaker to teach English.
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Three weeks ago, on a Thursday night at 10:30pm, my boyfriend, JP and I cozied up for a movie on the couch. There was a knock on the door. It was someone from our broker’s office. He said we had to move. What? Why? He didn’t seem to know. He was just sent to tell us to move.
JP got on the phone immediately to the broker. My mind went wild with scenarios, maybe there was a gas leak, or an evacuation. I listened as JP got angrier then promptly hang up the phone. He looked at the man at door said, “Don’t come back here with this foolishness.” Then slammed the door in his face.
“What’s going on?”
Whenever JP is disillusioned with Indonesians he says, “You know, Indonesians are so funny.” He began telling me tale the same way.
“Indonesians are so funny. The broker says we have to move because the owner of the apartment says he doesn’t want Black people in his place. I told him we are not moving. Six months rent have already been paid. They always do this to Blacks here.”
My jaw dropped. I looked at the calendar. Yep, it was still 2012 and not 1955 Jim Crow.
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“They always do this to Blacks here.” JP’s words resonated with me. Was this a reasonable request here in Indonesia? I asked around and apparently, it is. I was told of a nearby apartment complex, that banned blacks from living there. A former white English teacher was dating a Black man and security told her he wasn’t allowed to visit her anymore. On Facebook, I was messaged by a young lady who used to live here and was thrown out of a restaurant because she was Black. Apparently she’d missed the “No Blacks” sign posted in French.
This last experience has left me feeling sick. My mind keeps going back to a time when a demand like this was entirely reasonable. A time when our defiance would have been met with a lynch mob. I posted this experience on my personal Facebook page and many people suggested that I move out of concern for my safety. So far, the landlord and the broker have been quiet since our refusal. We are not moving because his reason is bullshit. Secondly, there has been no talk of us getting our money back. So, if he intends to keep our money then we will be here until the lease expires. We are staying for our dignity, our pride and our right to be treated like human beings. We are staying because we believe the lyrics to “War” by Bob Marley and “Imagine” by John Lennon aren’t entirely possible until mindsets are changed. Sure it is not our responsibility to change racist mindsets, but judging from the Facebook comments, who else will do it our situation? The landlord might have our money, but he most certainly will not have our obedience.
so sorry to read about this, and in a country with people of color…although it is not surprising, it is still disheartening…i do hope that you will continue to be safe an unharmed. racism, as you know, can get quite ugly…may you and jp remain safe and protected.
Thank you Rochelle. So far we have been blessed.
So sad that this is still such a prevalent issue! I’d love to visit Indonesia but reading this makes me wonder if its such a good idea. Thank you for sharing your experiences.
Thanks Nailah. Although, I think since I am living here I have had these experiences. I have spoken to Black folk who have visited here, in particular Bali (one of my favorite places in the world) who have not experienced any racism. I haven’t either. Also, if Indonesia is on your bucket list, I encourage you to come. There are many terrific experiences to be had.
Hi,
My White partner and I are currently vacationing in Bali.
The stares started to bothered me after a few days. Then about a week ago, things took a terrible turn. We went to Bedugul, a small village about 1.5 hours north of Ubud. It was here I experienced the pointing and the snickering and people laughing at me to my face. I was shocked and mortified! These people were often as dark in complexion as I am.
Just yesterday while having lunch at a Warung with my partner, two boys around 11/12,stopped and started pointing and laughing loudly at me. I was so pissed! I wanted to grab one and tell them to send their parents.
Yesterday, a vendor yelled at me because we didn’t agree on a price. I have no clue what was said but I know it could not have been nice…other vendors nearby were laughing.
My partner is treated very well! They worship him. He sees what I am going through and tries to comfort me. I hate this place!
I wanted to see the World so I could broaden my horizon and appreciate humanity more. What a major let down. The World is a happy place for people who area White.
BTW, I’m Jamaican as well. Born and raised.
Hey Kel. Sorry you are having a bad time in Bali. Which is a bit odd to me, because Bali is one of my favorite places. I am actually moving there this summer. I have experienced being the “other” especially in small villages in Bali and around Indonesia. Just keep in mind that these folks live simply and probably you are the first Black person they have seen. I know it feels like you are in a fish bowl. I am more forgiving of kids when they stare and giggle. I look at it as a learning experience for them and I tend to strike up a conversation. The Balinese are very spiritual, so try to immerse yourself in that. There are many temple ceremonies and lots of beauty. I always say, Bali is not like the rest of Indonesia. In fact it feels like another country altogether. In my experience, the people are kinder and gentler and they don’t plague you with questions. I really hope you try to see past the foolishness, and just relax and try to have a good time. Zeen?
im so sad and so sorry to read your story i never though the happen was so badly i cant imagine if it happen to me, wish u always have good luck diana and god bless u always
Thanks Susi. I just hope to open minds about living here.
Diana,
Your FB comment inspired me to write a post about your plight on my blog. I think you are doing the right thing. Racism will always exist, but that doesn’t mean we have to fluff up its pillow and make it comfortable. Speaking out, challenging it is what spurs change. Everyone deserves dignity and quite frankly it’s disappointing to hear about Indonesia….I wonder if its citizens have picked up a mirror lately? Looks like they are transferring their own self hatred onto you.
Wow Renee, thanks so much. As writers we have this powerful platform and I appreciate you using yours to broadcast my story. Many thanks.
Such bullsh*t. Like you, when confronted with such overt racism, I’m gobsmacked. They want to treat you like you’re a 2nd class citizen, while in Saudi Arabia they treat the Indonesians like slaves. smh Stupid Humans!! May you stay safe and continue to have strength in what is a trying situation. At least in Saudi Arabia I’m pretty much safe in my own home.
Yes Terri. Maid abuse is all over the news here. The government had to get involved and stopped issuing visas until the Saudi Government does something about it.
My heart hurts reading this. I wanted to cry to after reading how the cab driver treated you. Stand your ground, but stay safe.
I want to cry too after reading what the cab driver said and how others are discriminating against you a well. Stand your ground, but stay safe.
Thanks Monique. I appreciate your empathy and support.
I can’t believe things like this still happen in 2012 Indonesia at a time when the POTUS is black and even lived in Indonesia. I can only imagine what he had to go through living in Indonesia in the 60s. I was considering visiting Indonesia but I think I’ll pass after reading this.
I live in South Korea currently and even though there is some racism here, I’ve never experienced anything nearly as bad as what you’ve had to go through and I live in a small town. I really hope this experience makes you stronger and doesn’t break you.
Indonesia has a long way to go in terms of racial equality. Thanks for your comment.
Sister, i m very sorry for this bad experiences, but i also have had same in Brazil. Trust me, one of the most racist coutries in the world is Brazil. Over there, black are just not welcome nowhere; bad treatment in restaurant, in bank, etc…You cant find easy an place if you black, and you called ” Macaco” as monkey in the street. It s just very desappointing for a country with black afrodescendant. Braslian blacks are discrimitated, and living in favela like guettos in extreme poverty. Can t find decent job event with good diplomas. Uncredible! the world must know about that.
Thanks. I have heard about Brazil and it too breaks my heart.
your story so touching my deepest heart, I’m Indonesian and I’ll killing people who does racism to everyone. how can immoral people can live in my lovely country. I am not ashamed to say that I was too flabbergasted to apologise.
where are you now Diana, are you still in Indonesia? I’m at Jakarta, maybe you wanna take a conversation with me, just share anything. I love Photography like you. email me
Thanks you for your kind response Gavin. I really appreciate you reaching out to me. I am well!
Oh my God.. as an Indonesians I’m very ashamed that these things happened to you.. We actually have black people which are naturally Indonesians in Papua and other eastern indonesia but we still do that kind of things? I can’t believe it..
And most of all, the majority of Indonesians are moslems.. we moslems shouldn’t treat someone based on their looks.. to think that kind of racism exist in this country.. it is so shameful..
I’m so sorry on behalf of all Indonesians.. I admit that even myself can’t help to look strangely to foreigners since we rarely see ones in this country.. but I will not do that kind of racist things to anyone.. it’s unthinkable for me..
Thanks Rasacola. I appreciate your sentiments. I am touched.
Exactly why I hate my country. Im so sorry to hear that u have to experience it
Hi Chandra, Thanks for your sentiments. I haven’t let these bad experiences cloud my time here.
Hello Diana,
I have been living in Indonesia for the past 5 years and I understand your frustration.
One of my Senegalese friend came to visit me two years ago and we had the exact same experience while visiting Tanah Lot. People taking pictures and grabbing her, etc.
When she was walking in the street people were stopping motorbikes point at her and mimic monkey screams.
One day I’ve decided to take her to the biggest local market. My mistake. Dozens of people started to scream and point at her.
Whoever talked to us would start by saying “you friend is black BUT she is good looking”. Thanks
In the mall people would come to us and say “yes you can sister Obama!”.
We are talking about Bali here, the biggest tourist destination where people are used to see foreigners.
Here is my take on this :
- Indonesian people are low educated. In the village where I live most kids stop school at 12 years old.
- They are actually extremely racists against black people. The people from Papua are the blackest people they know and they hate them, calling them monkey indeed.
- The only Black American they know is Obama, since he was partially raised in Indonesia.
- I don’t think that people even understand the concept of racism. It’s pure ignorance and total dumbness, not nastiness.
Ask anybody here how much is 4 + 5. They won’t be able to answer without a calculator. Most indonesian people are smiling and nice people, but you have to deal with the fact that they are seriously low educated. Racism is just another word for ignorance.
As for the taxi driver you mentioned, he was just another taxi prick. Nothing against you or Black people I guess. Most taxi drivers here are just assholes who will try to steal money from foreigners by any way and become angry when they don’t succeed.
Focus on the genuine smile of Indonesian people who are actually willing to welcome anybody here with a warm kindness but will also be dumb in an equally genuine way.
Good luck
(Sorry for my grammatical errors, English is not my language).
Thanks Mega. I am sorry your friend had to go through that. I haven’t let these racist encounter deter me from enjoying Indonesia. Some of the best customer service I have experienced in my life has been here. Bali is still one of my favorite places. The people are so open-hearted.
Actually, I want to add that it’s probably not cool to be Black in Indonesia, but it’s sure better than being Chinese. 15 years ago they killed more than 100 000 of Indonesian Chinese during riots.
More info about Indonesian hate towards Indo-Chinese people: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Discrimination_against_Chinese_Indonesians
Yesterday I did a class in xenophobia and my students told me about it. The Chinese have been forced to have Indonesian names as well.
I have visited a neighboring country several times. But the racism in Indonesia is more blatant and crude. Stand your ground. All meaningful people of all races must reject this culture of hate wherever in the world it may be found. It is hard to push back against such inhumanity, but push back all reasonable people must. Hopefully our stand may make a difference someday. But we cannot be silent. Wish you all all the best and courage. And be safe.
Thanks Moses. I definitely think lack of education and exposure are to blame here.
Hi!
I was looking for some information about Indonesia and found your blog, which is great by the way. Your story makes me sick, people can be so rude and ignorant. I wanted to go next year on a charity project in Indonesia for 6 month, working in a school for children. I am a 18 y.o half black half white girl, and these kind of stories make me hesitate about my trip.. Was Indonesia more racist than Myanmar ? And were these racist comments constant ?
Thanks for checking out my blog. I encourage you look into volunteering in Indonesia. I live and work in Jakarta, and it is a different beast. I enjoy visiting the other parts of Indonesia, where I can breathe fresh air and experience hospitality like no other.
hi diana..i am so sorry that you have to experience that in Indonesia. I hate racism that happening in Indonesia as well. I am chinese indonesian which the true indonesian hate because we dominate the economy while they think it is their country even though we were born here, speak their language, take on their culture but we are still outsiders. I had an argument with true indonesian guy once regarding the ATM, and while we were arguing he just shouted ” stupid chinese”. So i can really relate to you. I agree with all of Mega’s points. Indonesians who live in the big cities are very shallow, they judge people on looks, and money. I;m originally from small city so i can’t relate with those people. I just hope you never have to encounter those kind of experiences anymore.
Thanks Liz. I’ve read about the race riots in Indonesia and it is so very sad. Consequently, my former landlord was Chinese Indonesia. Ignorance comes in all colors.
Hello Diana I’m shocked at the comments you made regarding racism in Indonesia today. I lived in Jakarta, Balikpapan andCierbon for 5 years in the early 80s as a black West Indian I never in encountered any racism from locals.Yesthere was the usual curiosity and just genuine ignorance.
In fact I felt that Indonesians had a special place in their heart for black people as they were a founder member of the nonaligned movement and definitely saw themselves as a developing country aligned with the developing countries of Africa Asia and Latin America.
I worked supervising a team Of localsand never had any challenges because of racism and certainly none from the Inonesians, only from my fellow expats the Americans from the southern US.
I guess with the development of the country came the ignorance of bigotry and racism which superimposed on a population with a low level of education can be seen as the way to be a “Westerner”.
Hi, Diana. I’m really sorry for this terrible, hurtful experience that you had. I was born and raised in Indonesia, my dad is Australian and my mom is from Bali. As an Indonesian, I am really embarrassed and disgusted for this kind of situation, not only does it happen to foreigners, but it also happens to many Indonesians. Until now many people still stare at me or whistle just because I have straight blonde hair… but i dont care because, well, i’ve been dealing with this since i was a kid. Sure there are many uneducated people in Indonesia, but truth is there are also many educated people who are so arrogant that they can’t even appreciate the diversity of race.
However, Diana, there is no place in the world that doesn’t have racism issues. I mean, even the most friendly country in the world still has some practices that would hurt another race. Even Indonesians also have to face racist experience when they live in other countries (my friends who are currently studying in Oz and UK have tons of these stories).
I really hope you enjoy living in Indonesia. Honestly people are really nice here; they smile a lot and very friendly. To hell with those taxi drivers and arrogant people, I say you should find your way to have the best time of your live! Don’t waste your time thinking about those racist people who hurt your feelings; smile and move on (this is what I told myself when they called me “pirang” which is blonde in Indonesian). Make friends with those who accept you and have fun!
Thanks Asha.
indonesian are racist and rude i tell you ……they like fighting
I am having similar experiences here in the Marshall Islands; I simply make sure I do not go to the restaurants alone, because they seem to mistreat me (mainly the women); they throw the money at me like they are afraid to touch my hand; in the minvan/taxis, the women rush to move to a different seat when I am entering; I counter this by going to the restaurants only when other faculty members are going (they are asian and white); I do not use the minivans, I take the small cars so that I can get the front seat; I sometimes preempt the restaurant ladies, by just putting the money gently on the table, and stand back so that they can put the change on the table for me; they seem ashamed (since I only do this to the ones who mistreat me); the strangest thing is that I get this response mostly from the darker skinned women here. I simply go to work, then head home, and try to cook as much as I can.
Hi JB I am so sorry you are going through this. It is crazy, but as a fellow educators I chose to really explore the world for a kind of pureness that was missing from the USA. Yes there is racism , but on this side of the world, I’ve encountered a kind of blatantness that I have never come across. Most of it is from people darker than me. Although that really should have no baring, but they are being racist because of my skin color. I am Jamaican, but I do speak with an American accent, sometimes they will hear my accent and adjust their attitude.
Thank you Diana. I must mention though that the majority of people here are generally nice and friendly.
Glad to hear it JB.
I know how you feel, I met chinese indonesian when I took a year out and travelling.
She paid me so much attention and very attentive that I thought she was the one for me, I went to indonesia for the first time to meet her parents and it was the worst time of my life.
I encountered racism like I have never known before, I said I can’t takd this and was leaving, she said she loved me and was coming with me.
I did marry her,and it was the worst mistake I done as she left when my son was 9 months old and I have been bringing both my kids up on my own for the last 5 yeras as she was only after money and she did not want the kids as they don’t like black people.
Johnathan I am so sorry about this. This is very sad indeed. But all you can is live your life and do your best by your kids.
Thanks very much for your support, it’s hard work and i feel very sad for the kids as they have to grow up without a mother. are you still in Indonesia?
You are welcome. Yes I am still in Indonesia.
Halo. I’m an Indonesian. And after read your article here, the think that i fear most suddenly turn out to be a reality= Indonesian are VERY IGNORANT people.
the first time i feel this phenomenon was during international soccer match(particularly during Indonesia vs Malaysia). Indonesian fans are so ignorant that they just harassing opponent’s anthem. during Malaysian case, its even worse: they waited at Malaysian team’s hotel just to harassing them!!!!!
don’t they realize that this kind of harassment will only cause disgrace to our nation?
the second was about some topics(i think it some sort of separatist, maybe?) in online forums, i realized that the majority of people commented are something like “wtf?! send troops to kill them!!!” or “the military operation is the solution, eliminate them immediately!!!” whatsoever.
don’t they realize that this kind of hostility will further worsen the situation and will worsen the suffering of innocent people?
And finally, i read your article. And i suddenly remember, many Indonesian, when asked about the black people, their opinion are mainly negative. this is even worse for the Papuan, which are black also. Many Indonesian see them as nothing but a bunch of naked, primitive people from the new guinea hinterland. I can tell you, it’s similar as the European seen African people in the 19th century Victorian era.
for other Indonesian, i’m sorry if i posted this, but i think i have to. why? because this is the problem that many Indonesian don’t realize at all=our very own “ignorancy”
We MUST realized this problem in order to become a civilized nation.
and for you, Diana, on behalf of Indonesia, please accept my apology.
Pandu thank you. It is interesting you brought up the intolerance, especially at foo ball matches. My fiance is pro-footballer from Sth. Africa and he’s told me of many instances where they had to leave the field because he and his teammates were being stoned by fans.
you’re welcome. And thank you for you, too.
and, uh, about that football match, please be steadfast. yes, our football fans are famous for its “misbehavior”. Because they ignorance, they think this kind of action make them proud and “macho” but instead, as i said before, it only bring disgrace.
The solution is, actually simple yet very challenging: a good education, especially in the field of morality. this is a very challenging task for our nation since everyone knows that our education system is not-something-to-be proud-of and the ministry of education is even worse than that.
If our nation have a good education, this kind of problem will not happening since people will realize this.
and thank you for you too